The Three Cities of Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Cospicua are the hidden gems of Malta’s Grand Harbour, a triumvirate of fortified peninsulas that served as the original base of the Knights of St. John before they built Valletta across the water. While tourists flock to Valletta, these three interconnected cities offer an arguably more authentic and atmospheric experience of Maltese history, with their narrow limestone streets, baroque churches, and massive bastions largely free of the crowds that fill the capital.

Vittoriosa (Birgu) is the most visited of the three, its waterfront lined with superyachts that contrast dramatically with the weathered medieval fortifications behind them. Fort St. Angelo, magnificently restored and jutting into the harbor at the tip of the peninsula, was the headquarters of the Knights during the Great Siege of 1565 and offers spectacular views across the Grand Harbour to Valletta. Senglea (Isla) rewards visitors with the famous gardjola watchtower at the point of its bastion gardens, carved with an eye and ear symbolizing vigilance. Cospicua (Bormla) wraps around the others with its massive Cottonera Lines, the longest fortification walls in Malta, built to protect all three cities from attack.

Pro tip: Take the traditional dgħajsa water taxi from Valletta’s waterfront across the Grand Harbour to Vittoriosa for the most scenic and memorable approach. The crossing takes just minutes and costs a fraction of the alternative bus journey. Explore in the late afternoon when the honey-colored limestone glows in the setting sun, and stay for dinner at one of the waterfront restaurants in Vittoriosa, which offer Valletta views and lower prices than the capital.