Plaka is the oldest continuously inhabited neighborhood in Athens, a charming labyrinth of neoclassical mansions, Byzantine churches, and Ottoman-era houses draped in jasmine and climbing vines at the foot of the Acropolis. Known as the Neighborhood of the Gods for its proximity to the ancient citadel that towers above, Plaka feels like a Greek island village transplanted into the heart of a bustling capital. Its pedestrianized streets are lined with family-owned tavernas where grilled meats sizzle over charcoal, souvenir shops selling olive oil soaps and hand-painted ceramics, and small galleries and museums tucked into renovated 19th-century homes.

The sub-neighborhood of Anafiotika, clinging to the northeastern slope of the Acropolis, is Plaka’s most enchanting secret. Built in the mid-19th century by workers from the Cycladic island of Anafi who constructed their homes in the whitewashed, cubist style of their homeland, these tiny houses with their blue shutters and narrow stepped lanes create the uncanny impression of having been transported to Santorini. From the upper reaches of Anafiotika, the views over the rooftops of Athens to Lycabettus Hill are magnificent. Throughout Plaka, archaeological sites peek through at unexpected moments: a Roman forum here, a library of Hadrian there, ancient foundations visible beneath a taverna floor.

Pro tip: Climb the stepped lanes to Anafiotika in the early morning when the neighborhood is quiet and the cats are sunning themselves on doorsteps. For dinner, choose a rooftop restaurant on Adrianou Street for direct views of the illuminated Parthenon, but make reservations for tables with the best sightlines. The small Museum of Greek Popular Instruments on Diogenous Street is a free, delightful hidden gem.