Pelourinho — known locally as Pelo — is the historic heart of Salvador da Bahia and the vibrant epicenter of Afro-Brazilian culture. This UNESCO World Heritage district cascades down a hillside overlooking the Bay of All Saints, its steep cobblestone streets lined with pastel-colored colonial buildings dating from the 17th and 18th centuries. Once the capital of Portuguese Brazil and the hub of the transatlantic slave trade, Pelourinho today pulses with the rhythms of its African heritage: the thundering drums of blocos afro echo off church walls, capoeira circles form spontaneously in sun-drenched plazas, and the scent of acaraje — black-eyed pea fritters filled with shrimp and spicy vatapa — wafts from the trays of Baianas in traditional white lace dresses.

The neighborhood’s cultural richness is matched by its architectural splendor. The ornate Sao Francisco Church, whose interior is covered in an estimated 800 kilograms of gold leaf, stands as one of the finest examples of Portuguese Baroque in the Americas. The Fundacao Casa de Jorge Amado celebrates the beloved author who set many of his novels in these very streets, while the Museu Afro-Brasileiro traces the profound influence of West African traditions on Brazilian art, religion, and music. On Tuesday nights, the legendary drum corps Olodum takes over the streets for an open-air percussion concert that transforms Pelourinho into the most electrifying dance party in Brazil.

Pro tip: Come on Tuesday evening for the famous Olodum drumming session in Largo do Pelourinho — arrive by 6:30 PM to grab a spot and a cold beer from a street vendor before the drums start. During the day, take an elevator ride on the Elevador Lacerda (BRL 0.15) connecting the upper and lower city for sweeping bay views and a piece of Salvador’s daily life.