Wild Atlantic salmon, traditionally oak-smoked over turf — sliced wafer-thin, served on brown bread with butter, lemon, and capers. The west-coast smokehouses (Burren, Connemara, Ummera) have turned a survival craft into a fine art.

Pro tip: visit the Burren Smokehouse in Lisdoonvarna (Co. Clare) for tastings and to see the smoking sheds, or buy a vacuum-sealed side at any farmers’ market to take home — it’ll keep three weeks unopened.